J texas and others ..thanks again for the suggestions!! The water sprays out of the back of the motor not pee like at all.. You talked about cleaning the nipple... I am not sure where you are talking about. Is it the hole on the shaft? And the telltale water pump indicator.. I am not sure what I am looking for...l just changed the spark plugs a couple of days ago and they were very black and had oil around the threads. lchecked the state of the new ones and they look 50 yrs old. l just bought the boat 2 months ago so I am pretty new at this. l am somewhat mechanically inclined but obviously have no experience dropping the lower unit.. Something l should take pictures of when I am doing it for reference later?? Thanks again for any help.

http://crowleymarine.com/

give your problem a try here. Click on customer service

''just bought the boat 2 months ago '' -- was this problem evident during ur test drive?

If the motor is been overheated, l highly recommend a compression test before going any further. Look for compression within 5 or 7% of each other. Much more than that, pull the cylinder head for inspection. Cyl head is not that big a deal on these outboards.

If u see silver or gray flecks on the spark plugs, aluminum transfer from melting pistons, do not bother with the compression test, just go ahead & pull the head.

Best spark plug for ur motor is champion QL77JC4 -- the NGK equivalent is not an exact match for heat range, they tend to wear down in a hurry.

Supposed to be a hose, about 7/16 maybe 5/16, runs from a fitting tapped into the water jacket on the port side of the engine, to a nipple on the lower part of the powerhead enclosure, on the starboard side near the back.

Go to http://shop.evinrude.com click on ''Electronic Parts Catalogues'' select ''Johnson'' in the drop-down box, drill down to ur year & HP & model #.

The nipple is #40 on the ''motor cover'' chart; the hose is #49 on the ''cylinder & crankcase'' chart.

The water pump is on the ''gearcase'' chart; u have to disconnect the lower shift rod from the upper shift rod (exhaust housing chart) through the access plate on port side of the exhaust housing & remove the mounting bolts to free up the lower unit. If the water pump inner housing is scored at all, get a full pump kit otherwise just replace the impeller.

Slide the new impeller on over the driveshaft, slip the woodruff key into the slot just before u cover it up. Put a little grease (trailer wheel bearing grease is fine) in the pump housing & push it down over the impeller while turning the driveshaft clockwise with ur hand. Do not use any kind of tool on the driveshaft slines. For reassembly: there is an o-ring on the drive shaft just below the splines -- u need that on there. Molly lube on the drive shaft splines, 3m 847 (or permatex #2) on the joint where the lower meets the exhaust housing (permatex is harder to remove next time around). OMC gasket sealing compound (or some kind of anti-seize) on the retaining bolts so corrosion wo not make 'em freeze up on there. http://ishopmarine.com sells the sealants & other chemicals.

Highly recommend the factory service manual, available at http://iboats.com & http://marineengine.com

also, read up on why & how to ''decarb'' ur motor here:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158076

l get my parts mostly at iboats but l shop at all those vendors mentioned above. I've shopped crowleymarine.com too, they're all good.